A Voyage in Kyrgyzstan’s Winter Wonderland
Salam Adventurers! Last December, the Beyond Expeditions Team embarked on our first ever Winter expedition to the Land of Celestial Mountains, Kyrgyzstan. (Catch snippets of our journey via our Instagram Highlights here!) We rode horses up majestic snow-capped mountains, drank fresh water directly from frozen alpine lakes, and even rode on a sleigh! Kyrgyzstan is by far one of Beyond Expeditions’ favourite countries to visit, and through this series of experiences, I now understand why.
Voyage with me through this adventure as I share with you more about the beauty that Kyrgyzstan has to offer and the key highlights of our first Winter expedition.
The Journey To Son Kul Lake
On Day 2 of our expedition, we journeyed from Kyzart Village (our guesthouse the previous night) to the second largest frozen alpine lake in Kyrgyzstan; Son Kul Lake. The size of Son Kul Lake itself makes it one-third that of Singapore, measuring at 278 square kilometres in size and 28 km wide. During non-winter seasons, the waters are mesmerisingly clear, appearing almost invisible to the human eye. Fishermen would head out to fish, and the rivers would begin flowing again as the new season melts away an icy kingdom of glaciers.
The journey to Son Kul Lake in the mid of winter was not an easy one for city folks like us, but with our mighty stallions and appropriate winter gear, we were well-prepared and more than ready. If you’re a first timer going on a horseback ride, don’t you worry! Beyond Expeditions ensures that all our participants are fully equipped with the basics of horse riding before you board the plane to Kyrgyzstan.
The 6-hour horse ride was mesmerising, with jaw-dropping views at every corner. Time felt irrelevant, with hours easily passing by as we took in the beauty of the landscape. However, as we reached the halfway mark, the pathway got a little challenging. We battled with sub zero temperatures (close to -20 degrees celsius), icy cold winds whipping harshly against our faces as we neared the top of the mountain and knee deep snow for our horses. The evening sun cast long shadows on the ground, and the temperature plummeted even more as the day grew darker. In such challenging times, we dug deeper and embodied the Beyond Expeditions tagline - ‘Go Beyond’. Proving once again that Beyond Expeditions is more than just a travel agency that brings you to beautiful places, but also one that pushes you through life-changing adventures that will transform you both inside and out.
We finally arrived at our destination for the day, ending our arduous journey at a yurt camp metres away from the lake. Later that night, we huddled together with a cup of hot tea in our hands and a hearty dinner to share. Conversations flowed warmly from one soul to the other, and we toasted to both our struggles and celebrations for the day gone by.
Sleighhhhhhh Away
After the challenges of the previous day, we received an extraordinary ‘reward’ from our host guide; an experience we could only dream of having in Finland or Norway. We couldn't believe our eyes; it was a real-life sleigh! Christmas came early for us, and now it's beginning to look alot like Winter Wonderland here in Kyrgyzstan.
We hopped into the sleigh and our trusty steeds led us across the frozen alpine lake of Son Kul. It felt like a scene from a movie, with gorgeous backdrops of snow capped mountains crisp white snow drifting from the skies. The only elements missing were Santa Claus and his iconic reindeers… but with our horse guide, Zakir, and his trusty horses, we had absolutely nothing to complain about. Everything was truly oh so magical.
We thought nothing could top this experience! But just like Christmas, Kyrgyzstan is a gift that keeps on giving. We came to a stop in the middle of Son Kul Lake (ps it’s still mind-boggling that we are standing on a frozen lake), and discovered a cracked hole in the ice. Our guide got us to try fresh cold lake water, and water never tasted so good! In the words of Singaporeans - ‘Shiok ah!(so good)’ Arguably the finest water you’ll ever taste - clean, pure and invigorating.
Staying in a Freight Train Container in the middle of Nowhere
During the Winter Expeditions, the cold climate in Kyrgyzstan turns away many nomadic families from wanting to set up their yurts for tourists or themselves. Most of them travel back to their towns to tide through the harsh season. But, don't be disheartened because we found something equally amazing for you. For two nights, in the brutally frosty winter, we got to experience staying in a freight train container.
Right smack in the middle of nowhere, it was lined up with two other containers - a storage room style container and a dining room container. Our hosts, Meder Baike, Kuba and Merim (our cook) prepared a scrumptious Kyrgyz dinner upon our arrival. We have collated an amazing list of Kyrgyz food you should try, read our article here!
With a built-in wood burning stove, we were gifted with warmth throughout the night! This was truly a unique experience we would never forget.
Stand Amongst Giants at Kel Suu
Another day, another round of horseback riding! But this time, we’re confident about our abilities. I might even consider being a horse guide (I'm kidding)! Today, we had the privilege of having Meder Baike and Kuba lead us up the giant mountain and valleys that surround Kel Suu Lake. The path to Kel Suu is less gruelling, takes less time (approximately 4 hours) and presents a more beautiful breath of scenery. Being surrounded by the majestic giants of snow-capped mountains and sloping valleys, it felt like a scene out of Game of Thrones.
Towering snow-covered formations rise dramatically in the surrounding terrain, their craggy peaks piercing the sky above. Kel Suu, which means ‘incoming water’ in Kyrgyz, is a majestic mountain turquoise lake that sits on the headwaters of the Kurumduk River at an altitude of about 3600 metres above sea level. As the lake was frozen during the time of our expedition, we trekked down to have snowball fights and form snow angels. Just a couple of tropical people who are experiencing snow for the first time. A sight to behold. Trek down further and you can see the frozen lake up close to hear the creaking and groaning sound as the ice expands and contracts.
According to our guide, you can see shimmering waterfalls, stunning structures of rocky islands nearby, picturesque bays and grottoes when summer comes rolling around. For a small fee, you can even sail on a boat out to the end of this 9-kilometre long lake to explore the multiple caves Kel Suu has to offer.
Time to hit the Ski Slopes of Tien Shan Mountains
We saved the best for last - an adrenaline rush on the slopes of Tien Shan Mountains. An expedition to Kyrgyzstan would not be complete without spending a day in Karakol Ski Resort, learning the techniques to be a professional snowboarder/skier (one can dream of it!) Your snowboarding/skiing instructors will ensure that you leave Karakol Ski Resort with at least the basics of snowboarding/skiing, and definitely the urge to return to the slopes to practise your moves. Who knows, this might end up being a new hobby you pick up for yourself!
Before we dove into learning the nitty gritty, we headed to a nearby gear store to rent and pick up our gears - helmets, googles, snowboard, boots, ski poles and skis. The store was also well-stocked with winter gear such as ski pants and gloves for rental, though we do feel it’s best to have your own gear ready too!
(A list of rental prices for gear & snowboarding/skiing instructor will be listed at the bottom of the article under travel information.)
If you’re already comfortable with the fundamentals of snowboarding/skiing, you can head straight to the ski lifts and hit the slopes. For beginners such as myself, your instructor will take two hours to ensure you know the basics of braking, slowing down, changing direction and speeding ahead. The rest of the day, the ski slopes are all yours till the resort closes at 4pm!
Snowboarding and skiing can get pretty tiring and intense for newcomers, so be mindful of your capacity and plan to take breaks in between. During your lunch break, you could take a trip up to the top of the Tien Shan Mountains via the ski lift to get a breathtaking view of Kyrgyzstan, and if you’re lucky, you might be able to see Issyk-Kul Lake. It is the 10th largest lake in the world and still,bigger than Singapore.
Unbelievable.
That’s not the only thing that will blow your mind, though. At the top of the Tien Shan Mountains is where you’ll also see the most daring, bravest, skilled snowboarders and skiers. We stood there watching them, speechless in awe and admiration as they conquered the slopes at an impressive speed while making it look ever so easy.
We then ended the day at Karakol Ski Resort by toasting over a glass of wine or champagne with our newfound friends and cherishing the newly formed memories. Sharing our adventures with you readers makes us miss Kyrgyzstan so much more! The breathtaking mountains and thrill-seeking adventure offers a completely different experience from a typical tour. This expedition to Kyrgyzstan is one that will shift your perspective on what your body is capable of achieving, gifting you with jaw-dropping views to remember for a lifetime while also bringing you opportunities to learn from the locals about their way of life. We hope you enjoyed our in-depth experiences and if the wanderlust in you comes alive and calls for Kyrgyzstan, here’s where you can sign up for our next group expedition!
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Currency Exchange Rate: 100 Kyrgyzstani Som = 1.53 SGD
Snowboarding (Boots + Snowboard): 600 - 1000 Kyrgyzstani Som
Skiing (Boots + Ski Poles + Ski): 400 - 1200 Kyrgyzstani Som
Helmet: 300 Kyrgyzstani Som
Goggles: 300 Kyrgyzstani Som
Gloves: 200 Kyrgyzstani Som
Ski Costume (Jacket & Pants): 400 - 800 Kyrgyzstani Som