The warmth of Kyrgyzstan – through the eyes of A BEYOND EXpeditions local guide
For a mysterious country full of natural and cultural wonder like Kyrgyzstan, no guide book or travel listicle can tell you enough. The true essence of Kyrgyzstan is taken in through seeing the majestic mountains with your eyes, tasting the best Plov, and drinking fermented horse milk offered by enthusiastic locals. You have to live it to truly understand it.
For me, being with our local guides, Maksat and Aytegin almost 24/7 for 10 days allowed me to see Kyrgyzstan through their eyes. Their warm hospitality wasn’t just about putting us first or taking us places. It was them generously sharing their way of life with us, and sprinkling our trip with personal anecdotes – letting us into a bit of their world. Here are 7 things I’ve learnt from them:
#1 The Kyrgyz drink some serious tea, with jam
On our first day, we were introduced to warm tea in the cold. There were chalices of jam – raspberry, Strawberry, and even Yuzu Lemon. I took a sip, and I had to have it every meal. Maksat will clink his cup with ours, and tell us that here, they drink ‘serious’ tea: rich, fragrant and tasty. Not your ordinary ones out of a teabag.
#2 People gather around food
At every meal table, there’ll be a whole array of bread, snacks and biscuits for sharing before the real meal even starts. At meal times, people huddle together and eat, usually starting with a soup or salad, then a meat or grain dish. Their meat dishes often include beef and lamb, which is hearty and satisfying in the cold. Occasionally, they have horse meat too. Before they eat, they always say their thanks for the food on the table, for the animals that have sacrificed for it.
#3 They love life
People here are very content with life. Maksat always starts the day by telling us ‘life is good’. Even when we face a hiccup, he says the same thing. Stress is stranger here. They live in the present, appreciating small moments like a good walk outside, or a delicious meal. But at the same time, they’re full of positivity with hopes and dreams for the future. On a random night, post-dinner spontaneity turned out to be singing with the guitar, some dancing in the main yurt, and a huddle around a fresh fire.
#4 They love the nature they’re in
We often take breaks on the road, and literally stop to smell the flowers. Our guides often picked us wildflowers when we made stops. Aytegin knows the flora and fauna outside like the back of his hand, teaching us to recognise them and their food and medicinal benefits. The Kyrgyz embrace the vast nature they have, and are very proud of it. They’ve seen the view countless of times, and yet they’ll stand with us and say “Isn’t this view amazing”.
They also treat their animals with respect, especially their horses. Maksat and Aytegin taught us how to tame our horses and ‘bond’ with them, and shared that the Kyrgyz way of respecting them is to utilise them from life to death. From life, as a mode of transport, till death as every part is used for food without wastage. Beshbarmak is a local dish with handmade noodles and horse meat in it.
We even met a forest ranger in Enchilek who, armed with his trusty binoculars, has been guardian of the mountains in the area for over 15 years. Now retired, he still spots snow leopards and track their whereabouts to make sure they’re thriving there.
#5 Community is everything, no matter where you go
I keep using the word hospitality, but really, it’s warmth and generosity. Not just to us, but for fellow locals as well. Our guides often tell us that everyone’s ‘friends’ in the country, and everyone looks out for each other no matter what. If there’s food, they share. If a lonely shepherd flags a car down asking for a ride which would otherwise take 6 hours on foot, there are no questions asked.
Because of the vastness of Kyrgyzstan, we spent quite a few hours commuting in the car. Sometimes, we’d pass long stretches of road, and, Maksat would pull up and stop for kids standing by the road, to give them candy, or to purchase fermented horse milk they were peddling.
“Look around here, there’s nothing much. These kids can stay outside the whole day in harsh, cold weather selling farm-produced supplies to earn some cash for the family; for school. I feel that now I’m in a position to help, I want to give back to the community.”
Whenever we arrive at a new yurt camp, we were always welcomed (and fed) like family. We had aunties and uncles piling plate on our food and eagerly getting us hot tea, which was such a comfort after a long day. Our guides will often help out around the camp as well, and even interact with the children there.
#6 Strong women run the yurt camps
In the Kyrgyz yurt camps, it’s often the women who run the camps, ensuring everything is running, and cooking meals for up to 100 people at a time when there are visitors. All while the men focus on the work outside, managing farms and horses. After we return from a day of adventures, we’re always greeted with a friendly face and served warm food by the mamas who take care of the camp.
#7 The weather changes in the mountains. Every 5 minutes.
Unpredictable weather is part of the mystique of the mountains. It can be sunny one moment, and hailing the next. Horse-riding in the mountains reminded me that we’re just mere humans in Mother Nature.
Being in Kyrgyzstan, away from everything else really puts life into perspective, and the locals know it too. The respect and reverence they have for their nature – from the ground they walk on to the animals they walk with, is so immense, and bigger than themselves. From respect, comes warmth and love which is infectious.
I was cold a lot on the trip due to the changing weather, but I truly got to experience the warmth of Kyrgyzstan and learnt so much in small, everyday details that made the country special. It’s a place that first surprises you, then grows on you over the days. An underrated hidden gem, Kyrgyzstan is an adventure you have to experience yourself to soak in all of it.