Journals of a Solo woman Traveller to the Celestial Mountains
Transformative travel can happen pretty quickly and intensely. If you are not taking the time to savour the moments, note down your present thoughts & reflect on the experience, it may pass you by.
Here is a rare peak into the travel diary of Kahmy as she joins a small group to explore the heights of the celestial mountains in the freezing winter. Read her inner thoughts as she discovers Kyrgyzstan and herself along the way.
Reaching different destinations require long car rides, which besides the incredible views, also offer ample time to journal, read, go through your photos, and enjoy group conversations or a good nap.
Prologue
“Today, I am noticing the rising fresh feelings of a new start. The buzz of a season turning and a knowing that times are changing if I guide them to do so. I wish for this journal to be my witness. ”
Day 1
1st December 2023
Istanbul, Turkey
Chilly wind, blue skies
“It’s really exciting to be on a plane again, seeing the lights of civilization from the sky like you are a God really never ceases to amaze me. We get off the plane and step into Turkey, my 30th country!
There is only enough time during this half-day layover to see the highlights of Istanbul. Yet as we meander around the old city, I feel humbled to be in a place of such history & heritage. There are over 3600 mosques in Istanbul, including 2 of the grandest ones I've ever seen (the Blue Mosque & Hagia Sophia Mosque that face each other). Our friendly local guide tells us about the overlapping civilizations of the land’s past that really make it the confluence of Europe & Asia.
After we fill our bellies with Turkish coffee & sweet Baklava, we walk towards the Bosphorous River and cross a tram track. The tram driver and I make eye contact, he gives me a smile and a wave. It reminds me that there are always moments of human connection if we simply choose to see each other, even for the briefest moment. My only wish is that more people can come together harmoniously in a shared space, like old friends gathering around a tree to sit, enjoy tea and bask in our shared humanity.”
Watch my reel about packing winter clothes here!
Istanbul is a combination of so much history, flavours, sights & colors! Highly recommend exploring the city during the long layover.
Day 2
2nd December 2023
Bishkek > Kochkor > Kyzart
Cold but sunny
“Today is our first full day in Kyrgyzstan! We’ve been treated to a hearty homecooked lunch by the mother of our local guide Zhana, and I am impressed by how fancy the homes are. The dining room is lined with pretty curtains and the table is set up with goblets of biscuits. Meals are filling with huge portions and the cuisine is less foreign than I thought it would be. With hearty soups and yummy noodles, it almost feels like a taste of home.
I’m finding it very beautiful how family-oriented the culture is. People are kind, hospitable and generous. It’s very cool to be here in person and see all sides of the country from bustling city, peaceful village to remote nature. Always interesting to learn how other countries are organized - Kyrgyzstan is 60% rural & 40% urban, as compared to 100% urban Singapore.
The people & language are curiously new to me, some look like they can be my cousins and others have such a curious blend of Asian and European features. Countless reminders on how there are so many diverse ways of life to observe and appreciate. The chance to expand one’s world view must always be taken.”
Watch my reel introducing Kyrgyzstan here!
Zhana’s beautiful parents & the lavish homecooked spread they offered us for a welcome lunch.
Day 3
3rd December 2023
Lake Son Kul (3,016masl)
Blue skies, sunny weather
“Today I’m noticing that nature truly is the most precious gift we have to experience. In a world that demands our attention with so much noise, nature commands our attention and presence while being totally silent.
We spend our first hours on trusty horses who climb up mountain trails with such grace and calmness. As we reach the summit of the mountain pass and descend into the valley towards the lake, we dot the land blanketed white and are the only ones around. The ride is so meditative I almost fall asleep on the horse!
Then we arrive at our lakeside yurt camp and my inner child is fully activated! Carefully, I run onto the frozen lake and slide around the surface in glee. Born & raised on a sunny tropical island, these feelings never cease to amaze me. The haunting sound of the ice sheets slowly cracking into each other echo through the night and my sense of wonder only grows through the breathtaking sunset & starry night sky. I stay outdoors till my numb fingers can no longer bear the cold and fall asleep inside the warm yurt.”
Watch my reel on Lake Son Kul here!
Son Kul Lake has become the peaceful place I return to in my mind, and yes that’s me sitting on the frozen lake!
Day 4
4th December 2023
Lake Son Kul > Naryn
Clear skies & chilly wind, brief moment of snow in the morning
“The sunsets are so crazy here. Winter sunsets are so pink and purple, it’s stunning. We saw one from the car and it was absolutely beautiful to see the entire sky ablaze in golden orange. It’s surreal to take in these vast landscapes over hours of driving where landscapes go from undulating hills to jagged raw edges.
Days here remind me over and over how small Singapore is and how much of the world there is to explore. I’m grateful to be alive and to devote my energies so intentionally to chasing the feeling of aliveness always. I’m running towards life and not away.”
Watch my reel on winter sunsets here!
Kyrgyz horses are slightly smaller than typical but super sturdy, reliable, gentle, playful and elegant as ever. Don’t worry if you’ve never been on one before, you’ll quickly get the hang of it.
Day 5
5th December 2023
Naryn > Lake Kel Suu (3,514masl)
Stunning blue skies & bright sun, but the air is biting cold as we gain elevation
“Kel Suu is beautiful beyond words, unparalleled! Knowing that it’s just a container in the elements keeping us warm amidst 360° snowy mountains, I marvel at everything. From the painted sunset, the crystals catching light in the snow, to the resilience of the horses.
Seeing humans contrasted with such large landscapes is breathtaking. It's inspiring to see the untamed nature that humans have dared to traverse and make a home in. The nomadic ways are one of respect & courage. Such brave humans came before and brave humans we shall continue to be.
After our two cosy days up in the mountains together, we all shared a special bond and it was so hard to leave the family. Waving good bye to them till they fell out of sight made me teary eyed.”
Here is a poem by our Yak Sheperd host, Merder Atta (atta = dad, which I called him endearingly). He spoke this as we sat around the furnace (translated by our guide Zhana).
“These days will pass and not return, interesting and exciting spring will come.
We will run away from our youth, but these days will never run away from our youth.
It seems we are afraid of each other, which is disappointing,
But I can tell you the truth, the main thing in love is to understand each other without fear.”
Watch my reel on Lake Kel Suu here!
Lake Kel Suu is a place you simply have to experience in person to fully grasp the remoteness, the grandeur - the pure magic of raw nature.
Day 6
6th December 2023
Kel Suu > Naryn > Bokonbaevo
Cloudy & cold
“Today was the longest day of driving. Honestly Eldar (our driver) is so reliable, funny and kind, he takes good care of us.
The landscapes were stunning and dramatic as ever but the sunlight wasn’t as brilliant as on the way there. It’s little things like that that remind me why How Light Falls (@howlightfalls) is about savouring life in the present moment and not taking it for granted or assuming that it will repeat itself, because most often it will not, or rarely ever in the exact same conditions.
Life is made of a million constellations of moments, and this day of driving back up the country going from snowy planes to dusty canyons within a day feels both magical and absurd.
It proves how change is constant, and if nature is our teacher, the lesson here is that everything is transient, we will have highs and lows, seasons and tides, but nothing that time doesn’t bring or heal.
Singapore is but a tiny dot on the planet, and we cannot let the microcosm be our entire universe. Here’s to not being comfortable in the convenient and seeking smallness to feel the vastness. There is so much for everyone if you reach out to claim it.”
Watch my reel on long car rides here!
You can expect spectacular views while driving around the country, and look forward to have the coolest picnic of your life! Hot tea in the middle of a snowy plain? Yes please.
Day 7
7th December 2023
Bokonbaevo > Karakol
Foggy & snowy at night
“We stayed the previous night in a super cute yurt camp called Emily guesthouse and dinner was the absolute best. It was yummy meat and rice bundled inside a bell pepper, seriously so good, I have to try this myself at home.
In the morning, we had the privilege to witness a master eagle hunter at work with his eagle and it was an epic experience. So much physical work, time, sweat, passion & love goes into this nomadic tradition and I hope it continues to be preserved, learnt and passed down the generations.
The next morning, we start driving up above 1500 m till we meet Lake Issyk Kul, the second largest alpine lake in the world at 1607 masl. It is so huge that when you look at it, it extends to the horizon like a sea. Adding to the magic is how the Tien Shan mountains line the water’s horizon, rising up over the clouds like the heavens. The sight truly lives up to its name of the celestial mountains.
We all fall asleep in the car and arrive into the city of Karakol in the dark. It is foggy & snowy, and honestly quite a stark contrast from the days of nature past. The city is sprawling, with young people all dressed in black and bundled up against the cold, crossing roads to get to places I won’t ever know. It’s very mysterious yet slightly overwhelming to my senses which have gotten used to the quiet vastness of the remote areas.”
Watch my reel on Eagle Hunting here!
Master eagle hunter Salavat who has dedicated his life to learning, preserving, showcasing and passing down this time honoured nomadic tradition of eagle hunting.
Day 8
8th December 2023
Karakol
Snowing in waves
“Today was a real treat, and probably the most ‘conventional holiday-like’ day of the trip! We woke up early, packed breakfast & drove up to the skiing park. I am so happy to be on the slopes again, I have not skied in years and miss the feeling of speed.
We gear up & get ready and after a few runs I am happily surprised at how quickly & easily the skill comes back to me. I turn, speed up and slow down, smiling like a child as the snow kisses my face.
My favourite moments are sitting on the ski lift, watching people criss-cross the slope below me as fresh snowfall coats the tall fir trees. It’s like living in a snow globe – a white Christmas!
After days out in the wild, simple pleasures like a cup of hot chocolate & champagne hit different.”
Watch my reel about life in a snow globe here!
What a fun day! It’s amazing what a hidden gem skiing in Kyrgyzstan is, you will have a day to shred the slopes or just enjoy hot chocolate or champagne with the view – choose as you desire!
Day 9
9th December 2023
Karakol > Bishkek
Foggy & grey
“I am so grateful for our local guide Zhana and I know that my experience would be so much duller without her. I love how she laughs at everything, I love how I get to hug her and how she pinches my cheeks. I met a local guide and left with a sister. Eternally grateful for the colors, textures and sights of this country that will always live on in my heart.”
Watch my reel dancing on the frozen lake with Zhana here!
Bonding so much with my local tour guide was not on my expedition bingo card, but Beyond Expeditions really chose the right local partners and trust me, you will be in the right hands!
Day 10
10th December 2023
Bishkek > Istanbul
Grey skies & snowing
“Aiports are such emotionally transitionary spaces where you observe the best and worst of humans. I’m usually filled with nostalgia for the days past and excitement for the days to come, but this time I feel almost numb, like I am reeling from whiplash.
To live at 150% intensity then return to mundanity is a stark jump. To breathe so deeply in the mountains to smelling burnt coal city smog really confuses the senses. My heart is still in the mountains.”
Watch my reel on enjoying snowfall here!
Born a city girl but a nature girl at heart, this was a healing expedition of the mind, spirit and soul.
Day 11
11th December 2023
Istanbul > Singapore
Hot & humid
“Today I am celebrating that the trio has returned safely to Singapore with all bodies and bags intact. I am truly expanded and know that I will be carrying these memories for a lifetime.”
Watch the reel of me happy dancing around Bishkek here!
The group made it there together, and after many big smiles and SO many photographs later, we made it back home safely too!
Epilogue
I invite you to always bring a journal when you travel. Here are 3 simple daily prompts that can help you capture your field notes with thick descriptions:
What about your surroundings is calling your attention to observe?
How is your inner world feeling, what are you noticing about yourself today?
Describe a highlight or lowlight of your day and share why it left an impact on you.
Me and my journal, including a most precious page with signatures and a drawing by the locals at Lake Kel Suu. They drew it after dinner as we chatted and sang around the table to pass the long nights.
Photographs & Words by Kahmy
Kahmy is an adventurous dreamer & jack of many trades. She travels the world with her camera, journal & open heart.
With boundless energy & courage, she feels called to inspire people to reconnect with themselves, nature and each other.
Watch more of her travel stories & tips on Youtube!
